Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry, presented as a combined menswear and womenswear show for Spring/Summer 2019, marked a pivotal moment for the storied British brand. While the overall presentation showcased a bold reimagining of Burberry's identity, this analysis will focus specifically on the menswear looks, dissecting Tisci's vision and its impact on the legacy of the house. The collection, immediately dubbed "Burberry Spring 2019 Ready" in the industry, represented a departure from the brand's previous aesthetic, trading its heritage-focused, often predictable style for a more contemporary and provocative approach. This wasn't a mere update; it was a complete reinvention, a gamble that ultimately paid off in generating considerable buzz and setting a new course for the brand's menswear line.
The show itself was a spectacle, a carefully orchestrated blend of music, lighting, and of course, the clothes. The venue, a purpose-built structure in London, amplified the sense of occasion. The models, a diverse cast reflecting a modern and inclusive vision, strode confidently down the runway, each look carefully considered and contributing to the overall narrative Tisci was weaving. Gone were the overtly preppy elements that had long defined Burberry menswear; in their place stood a collection that was both undeniably Burberry and strikingly fresh.
One of the most striking aspects of the Burberry SS19 menswear collection was the exploration of silhouette. Tisci moved away from the traditionally slim-fitting styles, opting instead for a more relaxed, almost oversized fit in many pieces. This wasn't sloppiness, however; the oversized elements were meticulously crafted, creating a sense of effortless cool rather than shapelessness. Oversized trench coats, a signature piece of the Burberry heritage, were reimagined, their proportions exaggerated to dramatic effect. These weren't simply larger versions of the classic trench; they were reinterpreted, often featuring unique detailing and unexpected fabric combinations. This play with proportions was consistent throughout the collection, seen in oversized shirts, relaxed trousers, and even the outerwear.
The colour palette was equally significant. While Burberry's signature beige and khaki remained present, they were interwoven with a bolder range of colours, including vibrant blues, deep reds, and striking blacks. This injection of colour added a layer of energy and modernity to the collection, preventing it from feeling overly austere or predictable. The use of colour wasn't random; it was carefully chosen to complement the textures and patterns used throughout the collection, creating a cohesive and visually arresting whole.
Tisci's masterful use of texture was another defining characteristic of the Burberry SS19 menswear. The collection showcased a wide range of fabrics, from luxurious cashmere and fine wool to more rugged materials like denim and leather. These diverse textures were layered and juxtaposed, creating a dynamic interplay of visual interest. The contrast between soft cashmere sweaters and the more structured lines of a leather jacket, for instance, created a compelling visual tension. This interplay of texture was crucial in conveying Tisci’s vision of a modern masculinity that is both refined and rugged, sophisticated and streetwise.
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